Before you install anything: test your water
A softener only helps if your water needs one. Hardness varies by water provider and by neighborhood, so test your tap with a kit, or ask your provider for its annual water quality report. We do not quote hardness figures for your street.
Also decide what you want to fix. A softener treats scale, not chlorine taste or sediment. For those, you need a filter, and some homes need both.
What you need for the job
Gather everything first.
- A softener that fits the space and matches your household size.
- A bypass valve, either built in or separate.
- Pipe, fittings, and shutoff valves that match your main line material.
- A drain connection with an air gap, plus tubing for the brine line.
- A grounded electrical outlet within reach, and bags of softener salt.
The basic steps
Pick a spot on the main water line after the meter and before the water heater, ideally in a garage or utility area. Turn off the main valve and drain the lines. Cut into the pipe, install the bypass and the unit's inlet and outlet fittings, and connect the drain line with an air gap.
Then fill the brine tank with salt, plug in the control head, set the hardness and the time, and start a regeneration cycle. Check every joint for leaks while the system pressurizes.
Where DIY installs go wrong
Most mistakes come from a short list.
| Mistake | Result | How to avoid it |
|---|---|---|
| No bypass valve | Cannot service the unit without shutting off the house | Install a bypass |
| Inlet and outlet reversed | No softening or damage | Follow the arrows on the valve |
| No air gap on the drain | Wastewater can back up into the unit | Install a proper air gap |
| Softening outdoor taps | Wastes salt and water on lawns | Plumb outdoor lines before the unit |
| Wrong hardness setting | Poor softening or wasted salt | Test water, then program the unit |
Plumbing considerations on a slab home
Most Sahuarita-area homes have a garage or utility area where the main line enters, which makes the install easier. The drain connection is the tricky part. A softener needs a place to discharge brine, usually a laundry standpipe or a floor drain, and slab homes may not have one nearby.
If a drain is far away, a plumber may need to add a line. That is a case where hiring a professional pays off. See our softener and filtration page for how we plan these installs.
Brine discharge and the Town's wastewater system
A softener sends salty water to the drain every time it regenerates. The Town of Sahuarita runs a Wastewater Department that serves more than 5,500 customers, and its phone number is 520-344-7100. Some places regulate softener discharge, so ask the Town whether any rule applies to your connection.
If your home is in Green Valley, the wastewater provider may differ, so ask your own utility. Either way, ask before you plumb a softener drain, since the answer decides how you route the line.
When a plumber is the better choice
Hire a plumber if your main line is old galvanized pipe, if you have no drain nearby, or if you are not comfortable cutting into the main line. A leak at the main can flood a house quickly. A plumber also sizes the unit and sets it up correctly the first time.
If the real issue is old pipe, a softener will not fix it. Our repiping page explains when pipe replacement is the better investment.
Maintenance after the install
A softener needs salt, and the level should stay above the water line in the brine tank. Check it monthly, and clean the tank once a year to remove salt crust. Replace the resin when the manufacturer says to, since worn resin stops working.
If your water pressure drops after the install, check the bypass and the resin tank first. Low pressure can also mean the pipe is clogged with scale, which a softener only prevents going forward.
Choosing the right size
Softener capacity is measured in grains. The right size depends on your water hardness, the number of people in the home, and how often you want the unit to regenerate. A unit that is too small regenerates constantly, and one that is too large wastes salt.
A plumber can work out the size from a water test and your household use. Do not buy by a store display alone, since the same box fits very different homes.
Tools and parts checklist
Check the list before you cut into the line.
- Pipe cutter or saw suited to your pipe material, plus fittings and unions.
- Two shutoff valves and a bypass, if the unit lacks one.
- Teflon tape, a drain hose clamp, and an air gap fitting.
- A level surface for the unit, ideally a concrete pad.
- Bags of softener salt in the form the manufacturer recommends.
Standards to look for
Softeners are tested under NSF/ANSI 44, and the manufacturer's instructions describe the drain connection and the air gap that keeps wastewater from flowing back into the unit.
Follow those guidelines for the drain line length and height, and ask the Town about any local rules for discharge.
Water softener installation questions in Sahuarita
How long does a softener installation take?
It depends on the setup. A straightforward install in a garage takes part of a day.
Do I need a permit?
Permit rules vary, so ask the Town of Sahuarita building safety department or Pima County.
Can I install a softener without a floor drain?
Sometimes, with a laundry standpipe. Otherwise a plumber may need to add a drain line.
Where do I find my water hardness?
Test your tap and ask your provider for its annual water quality report.
Can brine go down the Town sewer?
Some places regulate it. Ask the Town's Wastewater Department at 520-344-7100.
Do you install softeners in Green Valley?
Yes. See the Green Valley page.